Summary: This
document
contains a list of “print head cleaning tips.” It is an updated version
of an
older document, to provide additional information.
Contents:
How
to use this
document
Removing
cartridges
from different printers
Tips:
Run
print head cleaning cycles
Clean
the capping station
Use
flush cartridges or dye ink cartridges
Dislodge
air bubbles from the cartridges
Fix
air flow problems on desktop printer cartridges
Scrub
the bottom of the print head
How to use this document: Many of these tips require that you put
liquid
(Windex or water), and your hands into the printer housing. Please be
careful
as you do this, to avoid damaging your printer and to avoid an electric
shock.
Follow these safety tips:
·
Wear gloves (rubber, latex
or
nitrile) when working on your printer, particularly on a step that
requires you
to place your hands into the printer.
·
Wear eye protection, to
avoid
splashing ink or Windex in your eyes.
·
Before you put any liquid
into your
printer, either by dripping it in or by using a dampened paper towel,
unplug
the printer first. The steps below explain when to do this in the
process.
·
If you accidentally spill
liquid
inside your printer, try to dry the liquid out before doing anything
else (with
the printer unplugged). Let the printer air dry as long as possible,
although
in this case you should reinsert the cartridges, and push the print head
back
to the capping station before doing so.
Many of the tips
listed below
are not Epson-sanctioned, although they have been proven to be very
effective
over the years. When performed carefully and with attention to the
warnings
listed above, they are also very safe. Nonetheless, if you choose to use
these
tips, Vermont Photoinkjet stipulates that you assume all risks of damage
to
your printer, other property or your health.
Removing cartridges from
different
printers: On most printers, you may
remove and
reinsert cartridges without affecting their performance. On certain
models,
however, you must remove your cartridges in a special way in order to
retain
the ink level information stored on the cartridge chips.
Printer models 1270, 1280, 1290, 2000P. If you wish to remove a prefilled cartridge
that you
plan to reuse in the future, you must unplug the printer before removing
it. If
you leave the printer turned on when pulling a cartridge from one of
these
printers, you will write an “empty cartridge” message to the chip on the
cartridge, making the cartridge stop being accepted by the printer. To
safely
remove your cartridges for reuse, simply push the “ink change” (yellow)
button
on the printer, and after the print head moves to the left side of the
carriage, unplug the printer, and then remove the cartridges. If you
plan to
discard your removed cartridges, you may leave the printer turned on. If
you
have a PiezoFlow system, you may safely remove your cartridges with the
printer
turned on.
Printer models 860, 1160, 1200. On these printers, ink level information is
stored in the printer
memory, and not in a chip on the cartridges. If you flip open the
cartridge
lid, and then close it, while the printer is turned on, the ink level
for that
cartridge will return to a full reading. If you move the print head to
the ink
change position, unplug the printer and then open and close the
cartridge lid,
when you plug the printer back it will retain the same ink level as it
had
before unplugging it.
Keep this
information in
mind as you remove and replace cartridges in your printer. If you remove
a
half-full flush cartridge, and put it back in the printer at some point
in the
future, the ink level reported by the printer will be wrong. Under
certain
circumstances the printer may tell you that a cartridge is empty when in
reality it is not, or a printer may tell you a cartridge still has ink
in it
when it is really empty, and this all depends on how you removed the
cartridge
just before installing this one.
Printer models 2100, 2200, R1800, R800 and R2400. These printers use chipped cartridges,
but unlike
the chipped cartridges in older printers (e.g., 1280), the chip retains
the
actual ink level in it.
Printer models 3000, 7000, 7500, 9000 and 9500: These printers all use large format
cartridges
without chips on them. How you remove a cartridge from these printers is
very
important in certain ways. If you remove a cartridge from any of these
printers
and then replace or reinsert it, the ink level for that channel will
reset to
full. However, if you remove all of the cartridges in a 3000, 7000 or
7500
while the printer is turned on, and then turn it off with the cartridges
still
out, the printer will empty itself of all the ink in the tubes and print
heads.
This cycle is called a “transport dump,” and it should be avoided if you
are
not intending to run one. If you remove and replace a cartridge while
any of
the above printers are turned off, the printer will retain the previous
ink
level status.
Storing removed cartridges for later use. Cartridges may be safely stored by
following these
suggestions:
Place clear
plastic tape
over the ink outlet holes on the bottoms of the cartridges, and over the
air
vents, if applicable. Place the cartridges into plastic bags and close
them
tightly. Make sure to stand the cartridges up as they sit in the
printer:
certain cartridges will leak from their air vents if they are left on
their
side or upside down.
For large
format
cartridges, place tape over the ink outlet holes and seal them in
plastic bags.
For PiezoFlow
Continuous
Inking System cartridges, visit http://www.piezography.com/support/piezoflow.htm#storage
List of print head cleaning tips:
Tip #1: Run print head cleaning cycles.
Printers affected: all models
Quite often, running several print head cleaning
cycles will
unclog a nozzle, when perhaps one or two cycles will not.
Run up to five cycles in sequence. Print a nozzle
check
pattern after every one or two cleaning cycles to see if you have made
any
progress. On most printers, after approximately every fifth cycle, the
printer
will perform a more power head cleaning routine.
Compare the nozzle check patterns and see if there
is an
improvement. If you see steady progress, by the time you have run 5
cycles, try
one or two more and see if it continues to improve. If you don’t see
much
progress, or if you see the problem get worse, go to the next step.
On large format printers, you can run a head
cleaning
cycle either from the printer utility on your computer or from the
control
panel on the printer. Most large format printers offer different
“levels” of
cleaning. The cycle run from the computer is a standard cleaning cycle.
From
the printer, you can run more powerful cycles as well- depending on your
printer model and which menu you access on the printer, you can run any
of the
following:
· Powerful
cleaning cycle
· KK0
· KK1
· KK2
· Initial
Fill
The “KK” cycles increase in power (and in ink
usage) as the
number increases. The initial fill cycle uses the most ink. If a
standard
cleaning cycle does not fix the problem, try one or two KK2 cycles.
Print
frequent nozzle check patterns to check your progress. Learn more about
these
different cleaning cycles in your printer manual.
On desktop printers, you may run a nozzle
check
pattern from the printer, without needing to open the printer utility
window on
your computer. While the printer is on, hold down the “ink droplet”
button for
several seconds until a cycle begins. You can also print a nozzle check
pattern
from your printer as well: turn off the printer, load a sheet of paper
in the
paper tray (usually copier paper), and turn the printer back on as you
hold
down the page feed button. On most printers this will result in the
printing of
a nozzle check pattern.
Note about “automatic” nozzle check cycles:
in
addition to the standard nozzle check pattern utility on Epson printers
certain
newer printer models offer an automatic version of the nozzle check
pattern. In
the automatic mode the printer prints a special pattern, measures it,
runs a
cleaning cycle if needed, up to 3 or five times, until either the
problem is
fixed, or the printer stops trying. With Piezography inks, the
measurement
system on these printers will always reject an automatic nozzle check
pattern,
regardless of how it looks. If you want to run the automatic cycle,
realize
that you must look at the patterns as they printer, to determine if the
cleaning has been successful or not. If you see a perfect nozzle check
pattern
in this mode, you can abort the cycle when you want to. Alternatively,
you may
start an automatic cycle, and let it run through its steps, knowing in
advance
the print head has been cleaned several times. Also you will have a
printout of
the nozzle check patterns printed during this process. Just keep in mind
that
no matter how good or bad the actual pattern looks, the printer will
always
determine it is bad.
Tip #2: Clean the capping
station.
Printers affected: all models
This tip is
easy to
perform and often highly effective in fixing not only missing nozzles,
but also
any residual color you may see in a print shortly after installing a set
of
Piezography inks in a printer for the first time. This tip is especially
helpful if you see a nozzle check pattern become worse after running
more and
more cleaning cycles.
The capping station is a rectangular flat sponge
surrounded
by a raised gasket. When the print head is in the “parked position,” at
the
right side of the printer carriage, the gasket of the cap presses
against the
print head, sealing it. One purpose of this is to keep the print head
from
drying out due to air exposure. The second reason is that the cap is
used as
part of cleaning cycles: the sponge in the cap is porous, connected to a
small
vacuum pump underneath. During cleaning cycles, ink is pulled or printed
out of
the print head, and the ink drains into the sponge, with help from the
cap. The
ink is then deposited on an absorbent waste pad inside the printer.
Sometimes
the sponge will clog up, due to dried ink, or due to paper fiber in the
sponge,
and this keeps the ink from draining out properly. The excess ink will
then
make contact with the print head, and transfer onto the print head’s
nozzle
surface. This can cause blocked nozzles, or can even cause the printer
to print
the wrong color, if leftover color ink is pulled back into the nozzles
and
printed out again.
Cleaning off the sponge and gasket of the capping
station
allows the print head to stay clean. This can often make an ink jetting
problem
disappear instantly. The steps for cleaning the capping station are
listed
below. Please note that certain printer models have two caps (and two
printheads).
1.
Access the cap: Move the print head off the cap in order to
inspect and
clean it.
· Desktop
printers: push the “ink change” button to move print head off the cap.
Unplug
the printer
· 3000
printer: Unplug the printer, and manually slide the print head to the
left
side. Unplug the printer
· Large
format Epson printers: use initiate a “cutter replace” function from the
printer control panel, to move the print head. Unplug the printer after
the
print head moves over.
2.
Look inside the printer case, below where the print head was
originally
sitting, to find the cap or caps. A cap is a rectangular piece,
approximately
1” high by 2” wide (the exact size varies from printer to printer). It
is
mounted on a spring loaded mechanism. On certain large format printers,
there
may be a second device to the left of the capping station. It is simply
an
opening into the printer body, for the printer to shoot ink into during
cleaning cycle. It is not spring loaded. Among the different printers,
the
following models have two caps, one next to the other: 3000, 7000, 7500,
9000,
9500, R800, R1800, R2400.
3.
Look at the cap, using a flashlight if necessary.
· It
should be horizontal, not tilted at an angle. If it tilted, there may be
a
problem with the fixture supporting it. This can cause ongoing problems
due to
ink drying out in the print head. This problem usually requires the
printer to
be serviced professionally.
· The
surface of the sponge must be flat, and sitting below the level of the
gasket.
Make sure that it does not bow up at all. Sometimes, the sponge will
lift up in
the center or an edge. When this happens the sponge will always contact
the
print head, and cause ongoing problems. Older model printers are more
prone to
this problem. Newer models have a metal piece holding the sponge down.
4.
Clean the cap. Sometimes you may notice a buildup of residue or
liquid
in the cap or on the gasket; other times you will not. Use a drinking
straw to
deposit warm water, or use the tube from the inside of a bottle of
Windex to
deposit Windex, onto the sponge. Use your finger to dispense only two or
three
drops of liquid at a time. The liquid will remain in the cap for a few
seconds,
but will soon drain out. Repeat this several times. Try not to let the
Windex
or water spill around the cap, and into the printer.
5.
Fold a paper towel into a 4”x4” (10cm X 10cm) pad. Press the
towel gently
on the sponge to dab away ink and water or Windex. As you push on the
sponge,
push down and slightly to the right, to protect the spring-loaded
mechanism
that supports it. Pushing too hard, or pushing to the left can damage
the
capping station (and hence the printer). After dabbing several times,
you will
remove much of the liquid, but you can never remove all of it.
6.
Dip a cotton swab (Q-Tip) in water, and use it to wipe gently
around the
edge of the capping station gasket, to remove dirt buildup there. Again,
be
careful not to push the capping station out of alignment.
7.
Plug the printer back in, turn it on if necessary, and return the
print
head to the parked position. Run one or two print head cleaning cycles,
and then print a nozzle check pattern. If the nozzle check pattern is
better,
but not perfect, either run additional cleaning cycles, or clean the cap
again.
Tip #3: Use flush
cartridges or
dye ink cartridges.
Printers affected: desktop models
On 3000 printers and large format, this procedure
is to be
avoided, since the flush cycle uses a lot of ink and flush fluid. Use it
only
as a last resort.
If you think that the ink has dried inside your
printer,
then you may consider using flush, or dye ink cartridges. Dye ink is
nearly as
effective to use as flush fluid, since it doesn’t have solids (pigment
particles) in it. Depending on your printer model, you may wish to use
Epson
dye ink cartridges instead of flush cartridges. 1270, 1280, 1290 and
2000P
flush cartridges contain clear flush fluid, which makes it impossible to
see
the nozzle check pattern they print, and so they are not very helpful at
giving
you a feel for how well they are working. Epson 860, 1160 and 1200
printers use
a tinted flush fluid.
It is known that PiezoTone and Piezography NK6 inks
can be
interchanged with Epson dye ink, plus Darn Good Dye ink cartridges.
Therefore,
there are no concerns of ink compatibility when going from one set to
the
other.
Below are listed the procedures for flushing your
printer with
flush or dye ink cartridges. The procedure for desktop printers contains
additional steps which may be more helpful if included, but they may be
skipped
due to time constraints. These steps are indicated with an asterisk (*).
Large Format and 3000 printers:
a.
Remove the ink cartridges and use the “ink change” procedures
initially
used to install the flush cartridges. After filling the printer with
flush
fluid, move the print head off the capping station, deposit a few drops
of
Windex or water (see Tip #2, above), and then replace the print head to
the
capping station, before turning off the printer.
b.
If time permits, turn off the printer overnight or longer (flush
fluid
is very inert and can be left in the printer a long time).
c.
Turn on the printer, print a nozzle check pattern, and try to see
if it
looks better. You may run a cleaning cycle if desired.
d.
Replace your flush cartridges with the PiezoTone or NK6/NK7 ink
cartridges. If your ink cartridges are near expiration, or if they are
nearly
empty, strongly consider replacing them with fresh cartridges, rather
than
installing them.
Desktop printers using prefilled cartridges. If
you have a
PiezoFlow (CIS) system, see the note
below:
a.
Remove the cartridges from the printer.
b.
Before you install the next set of cartridges, deposit two or
three
drops of water or Windex, using a straw, on the sponge in the capping
station.*
c.
Use the straw to deposit liquid into the black plastic spikes
inside the
printer’s cartridge holder.*
d.
Install the flush or dye ink cartridges. Return the print head to
the
parked position, run one print head cleaning cycle, and turn the printer
off.
Leave the printer turned off for several hours, overnight, or longer if
possible.
e.
Turn on the printer, run two head cleaning cycles, and then print
a
nozzle check pattern. At this point, you should see an improvement in
the
previously missing nozzles. If the nozzle check pattern is not yet
perfect, run
additional print head cleaning cycles, and you should see continuing
improvement.
f.
When you have a perfect nozzle check pattern, tap your PiezoTone
or
NK6/NK7 cartridges on the table, gently, a few times (place a paper
towel down
to contain drips). This will help to dislodge air bubbles that may have
formed
near the ink outlet holes in the bottoms of the cartridges.
g.
Remove the flush or dye ink cartridges, and use water dampened
cotton
swabs (q-tip) to clean around the black plastic spikes inside the
cartridges
holders. Use dry cotton swabs to dry out the cartridge holders and
spikes, and
then reinstall the PiezoTone or Piezography NK6/NK7 cartridges.
h. Return
the print head
to the parked position, run two print head cleaning cycles, and print a
nozzle
check pattern to confirm that it is good. Print the flush image (here) on
typing
paper, to flush out the flush fluid or dye ink.
Note for PiezoFlow
users: If you have a PiezoFlow
system, modify the above
procedure as follows.
·
Close the pinch valves before
removing
it from the printer;
·
Place the PiezoFlow system on
newspapers, to protect the table from ink drips.
Tip #4: Dislodge air bubbles
from the
cartridges.
Whenever you remove and reinstall a cartridge, you
will
admit air into the print head, which could temporarily affect the
printer
operation. Oftentimes, allowing the printer to sit undisturbed for an
hour will
help the air bubble to move out of the way.
You can try to dislodge a bubble that is blocking
ink flow
out of the cartridge, by tapping the cartridge gently on a table surface
a few
times before installing the cartridge. Place a few sheets of newspaper
or paper
towels on the table to protect it from ink drips. Note that certain
cartridges have
spring loaded valves at their ink outlet holes, but many cartridges do
not. The
cartridges without valves can drip more than other cartridges when you
tap
them, so be careful.
Tip #5: Fix air flow
problems on
desktop printer cartridges
Note: This
tip applies
only to prefilled cartridges. Do not attempt this fix on CIS or
PiezoFlow
cartridges, as you will damage them.
Ink flow problems can occur if the air channels on
the top
of the cartridge become blocked. These air channels must be open to
allow ink
to flow out of the cartridge. Two different causes of blocked air vents
have
been seen:
· Ink
can enter the air vents of the cartridge during shipping, blocking air
flow
even after you have opened the air vent (by pulling the plastic tab);
· A
piece of the tab can remain over the hole, keeping the air vent blocked
even
after pulling the tab.
The solution to either problem is the same:
physically open
the air vent with a pin.
The procedure for doing this depends on the type of
printer
involved:
A.
Printers that use two cartridges;
one of which has three or five color channels in it (models 860, 1160,
1200,
1270, 1280, 1290, 2000P);
B.
Printers that use one cartridge
per color, i.e., a printer with 6, 7 or 8 individual cartridges
(models
2100, 2200, R1800, R800).
A. Printers that use
two
cartridges: These cartridges have the pull tab on one end of the top,
and small
plastic channels that run under the label, leading to the air intake
hole at
the other end of the top of the cartridge. On these types of cartridges
the
vent blockage will occur either from ink blocking the vent, or an
incompletely
removed tab, so that part of the vent is still sealed.
Solution: The cartridge label covers a firmly
fastened layer
plastic film, which is either clear or white (depending on printer
model). The
plastic film covers the air channels and air intake on the cartridge
body. To
fix this type of cartridge, peel off the top cartridge label, exposing
this
second film. Then, either remove the film completely, or else trace the
air
channels back to the air intake holes and poke through the plastic film
with a
pin, bypassing the vent channels completely. Be sure to poke through
each air
intake hole; there is one hole per ink position (1 hole for the black
and , 3
or 5 for the color cartridge).
On cartridges with clear film layers, it is easy to
see the
air intake holes. On cartridge with opaque plastic films on them, you
may be
able to see the holes through the film, or else you can see small
depressions
in the plastic film that covers the intake holes. Each air intake hole
is ¼ to
½ inch from the edge, and on color cartridges they are evenly spaced.
If you wish to put the label back on the cartridge,
be sure
not to cover the holes you just created. You may, however, cover the end
of the
cartridge that used to hold the vent tab, since these vents have been
bypassed.
It has been determined that poking holes of
different sizes
into the film has no effect on the amount of ink flow out of the
cartridge, and
so you may poke one, or several holes into each air intake without fear
of
changing how your cartridge will print. However, when you remove a
modified
cartridge from your printer, you may cause ink to spill out of the
cartridge,
through the new holes. Also, the ink inside the cartridge may evaporate a
little more quickly due to the hole directly into the cartridge. The
difference
in evaporation rate is not extreme, and it should not affect a cartridge
during
its recommended lifetime, which is six months after first installing it.
If you wish to remove a modified cartridge from
your printer
and store it for future use, put tape over both the ink outlet, as well
as air
inlet holes, to help keep the ink from drying out during storage.
B. Printers that use
one
cartridge per color: These cartridges are of a two piece design, and
they have
the vent tab directly over the air inlet hole in the cartridge. There
are not
air channels on these designs.
On these cartridges what can occasionally happen is
that the
vent tab will not completely pull off the cartridge, leaving the air
intake
hole still blocked. This prevents ink from printing out of the cartridge
and
appears as a clog.
To fix this problem, locate the air vent hole over
the vent
tab, and poke a pin through it. Then reassemble the cartridge, reinstall
it and
you should have good ink flow at this point.
Different models of cartridges have different
procedures:
· 2100/2200
printer cartridges are a two piece design. You can access the vent hole
by
separating the cartridges into its two halves. To separate the two
halves, hold
the outer holder in one hand, and pry the inner portion out of it, by
pressing
on the bottom part of the cartridge. The top of the inner portion has a
black
plug and a small circular hole in it. Poke a pin through the circular
hole, but
do not disturb the black plug. Reassemble the cartridge and put it back
into
the printer.
· R800/
R1800 printer cartridges are a different two piece design, and again the
vent
hole is in the inner portion. Separate the cartridge by sliding the
inner
portion out of the holder. At the top of the inner portion you will see a
black
plug and two small, circular holes. Locate the hole nearest one edge of
the
cartridge and poke a pin though that. Do not poke a hole through the
other hole
(which is near the middle of the top of the cartridge), and do not
disturb the
black plug. After poking a hole in the air inlet, reassemble the
cartridge and
put it back into the printer.
Important note about troubleshooting: On most printers, the position of each
“color,” or
shade or density of ink in the nozzle check pattern does not correspond
to the
order of the cartridges in the printer. For example, the fourth
cartridge from
the left in the printer may not be responsible for the fourth nozzle
check
pattern position. Look at the color nozzle check pattern schematic on
the Epson
utility and match the colors shown to the locations of each color
position
cartridge, or position within a cartridge. Be sure to fix the correct
cartridge
or position within a cartridge. As a simple precaution, it is often best
to use
the above procedure on every cartridge, or every position within a
cartridge.
Tip #6: Scrub the bottom of
the print
head.
Use This procedure to clean the
bottom of the print head, where the nozzles are located. You will
manually move
the print head back and forth over a folded, wetted paper towel. This
procedure
can remove a buildup of dirt (paper fiber) that may not be removed by
print
head cleaning cycles. Use this procedure sparingly, and understand that
it is
the most invasive of the tips listed, in that it can damage the print
head if
performed improperly. A dry paper towel can actually scratch the print
head,
affecting its performance. Additionally, if there is any abrasive
residue built
up on the print head, this technique may either scratch the print head
or else
force a piece of solid matter into a nozzle, permanently closing it.
However,
if used carefully and in moderation, it can be a very effective cleaning
technique,
particularly on an older printer, perhaps one that has never been
cleaned
before, or one that has sat for a long period of time without use.
a. Get several paper towels and a glass of warm
water or a
bottle of Windex.
b. Push the appropriate button(s) to move the print
head to
the left side of the carriage. After the print head has moved, unplug
the
printer power cord. If necessary, manually push the print head to the
far left
side of the printer carriage.
c. Cut a paper towel in half, and fold the towel
lengthwise
until the strip is about 1” (2.5cm) wide, by approximately 8 inches
long.
d. Push the folded paper towel strip in the black
plastic
channel beneath where the print head travels back and forth when
printing.
e. Moisten the left one inch of paper. Manually
slide the
print head over the left edge of the paper towel, trying not to slide or
drag
the towel as you do so.
f. As soon as you can see a small portion of the
paper towel
on the left side of the print head, wet the rest of the towel. Place a
few
drops of water or Windex along the length of the towel, and let the
liquid
spread. The paper should be completely dampened, but not oversaturated
with
liquid.
g. Gently slide the print head back and forth over
the
towel, being careful not to shift or tear the towel as you do this. As
you
slide the print head you will see the paper towel turn black. This is
dried ink
wiped from the nozzle plate, and ink pulled out of the nozzles by
capillary
action.
h. After two or three passes over the paper towel,
slide the
print head to the far left, remove the towel, and replace it with a new
one,
following steps c-g above. Two towels are generally enough to remove the
majority of the debris on the print head. Additional towels will
continue to
turn black, but this is mainly due to ink from inside the print head,
wicking
onto the towel by capillary action.
i. When you have finished scrubbing the print head,
remove
the towel, and use a clean, dry paper towel to clean up any liquid
remaining in
the black plastic channel.
j. Plug in the printer, and run one or two cleaning
cycles
to remove any remaining paper fibers from the bottom of the print head.
Then
verify you have a perfect nozzle check pattern before printing.